Unveiling the Spring 2025 collection, Demna redefined luxury through innovative design and strategic insight. The show in Shanghai highlighted his commitment to blending creativity with commercial success.
In the lead-up to his Fall 2024 Balenciaga runway show in Paris last March, Demna articulated a core tenet of his design philosophy. Via a QR code in his collection notes, he proclaimed, “What seems truly rare and infinite right now is creativity itself. I believe that creativity has secretly become a new form of luxury.” This sentiment is central to Demna’s concept of luxury, viewing it as a space for self-expression rather than a rigidly defined, opulent realm. This approach has been a key driver of his success at Balenciaga over the past nine years.
Since October 2023, Demna has been reinforcing his foundational values through his collections. He has presented a series of shows featuring his signature style: a punkish, provocative attitude and distinctive padded shoulders. Despite his consistent vision, Demna remains dynamic and innovative. His most recent Spring 2025 runway show (technically Resort 2025), held last night in Shanghai, exemplifies this dynamism. Although Balenciaga has more stores in China than anywhere else, this was their inaugural show in the country, a project years in development.
On a rainy evening at the imposing Museum of Art Pudong, the Shanghai collection was unveiled. It showcased Demna’s intellectually curious exploration of Balenciaga’s house codes and his twisted take on classic glamour. The collection had a reality TV flair, reminiscent of outfits one might see on Netflix’s *Bling Empire*, both in L.A. and Shanghai. Highlights included hourglass skirts, billowy pussy-bow blouses paired with slinky open-toe heels and white tube socks, and ripped-fabric pantaboots. Cropped and bulky trenches, along with cocooning faux-fur coats, conveyed an “I’m expensive” vibe with an air of nonchalance. True to Demna’s style, elements of tackiness were made chic through perfect tailoring and distinct lines.
Men’s fashion also took center stage, with the launch of a new collaboration between Balenciaga and Under Armour. The viral sensation was the triple-layer brick-size flatform boot, inspired by Shanghai’s towering skyscrapers, destined to become a must-have for Demna’s most dedicated followers.
The couture pieces that closed the show were especially enchanting, crafted from upcycled materials. The finale featured a pink gown made from decade-old plastic bags, cut into strips and fastened with wire to mimic feathers. A sleeveless draped dress was made from gold-foil gift packaging, while two other pieces used Tyvek paper and collected travel bags. A standout piece was the “black velvet jewelry display dress,” appealing to those who appreciate luxury with a twist of eccentricity.
Demna’s deep connection to Shanghai and its fashion enthusiasts was evident, and this meticulously planned show was a culmination of years of effort. Yet, despite his high creative vision, Demna remains a pragmatist. The expanding luxury market in Asia made hosting a prominent show in China a strategic business decision. Demna excels at balancing artistic integrity with commercial success, making him an exceptional artistic director and visionary. Whether in Shanghai or elsewhere, he creates clothes that provoke thought and evoke emotion—qualities that go beyond monetary value.
Balenciaga’s Spring 2025 collection in Shanghai was more than just a fashion show; it was a narrative rich with creativity, luxury, and cultural dialogue. Demna’s skill in merging avant-garde aesthetics with a keen understanding of market dynamics ensures that Balenciaga stays at the forefront of fashion innovation. This show celebrated the brand’s heritage while emphasizing its relevance in today’s rapidly evolving fashion landscape.
Demna’s latest collection for Balenciaga brilliantly showcased his belief that creativity is the ultimate luxury. By merging bold, thought-provoking designs with strategic market insights, he continues to push the boundaries of fashion. The Shanghai show underscored his visionary approach, demonstrating that true luxury lies in the power to innovate and inspire, transcending mere materiality.