After exaggeratedly quilted necklines and oversized coats for spring/summer 2023, Loewe took us into the world of flowers.
Set against a glossy white floor, Creative Designer Jonathan Anderson immersed viewers in a 90s fantasy gaming world with the pixelated illusion of Minecraft and the plant kingdom with dimensional fiberglass anthurium flowers. The action was accompanied by a violin, the highlight was shoes made of different materials and textures. “The erotic tension and precision of the anthurium flower dominates the LOEWE Spring Summer 2023 show space at La Garde Républicaine in Paris,” teased a caption on the label’s Instagram page to a live stream of the event.
For this season, the creative director wanted to reinvent the label again with his signature surrealist touch with outsized sculptural shapes and edgy silhouettes. And this Spring-Summer 2023 collection was not the exception. The Northern Irish designer showcased a lovely, crowd-pleasing balance of aesthetics: conceptual and commercial.
The show took place at a cavernous all white space where models took to the runway by emerging from a square-shaped hole in the floor wearing mini dresses, micro hemlines, sculpted skirts, elegantly draped styles, tunics, tennis dresses in candy colours and much more. Pixelated hoodies, tees, and trousers were pulled from a digital 8-bit universe, while autumnal layering was magnified through sculpted garments that took on a life of their own, alongside dual-toned leather coats enhanced with exaggerated sleeves that dangled against the simmering floor.
And, of course, the worldwide known term “The Rosette Trend” was also present as a key element for the entire collection. Jonathan Anderson embellished everything from statement tops to neon slips with striking, sultry, anthurium flowers accent (also known as the “tail flower”) rather than the more expected rose. In particular, we saw this trend implemented in a crisp white mini dress with an exaggerated open bloom for its top. It also appeared on shoes and on super feminine tops.
Everything is reduced to build the new silhouette: small hourglass dresses, knitted pullovers, leather, and hunting jackets in mini versions. As regards technology, it appeared in the form of pixels that define hoodies in knitwear, t-shirts, and slipped trousers. The drapery is blocked from above to slide smoothly along its entire length.
Moreover, Anderson continued to explore the idea of inflation and deflation in the footwear by introducing a series of pumps in glossy red, black and matte clay that looked like the shoes had been inflated around the foot. The idea of an inflated sense of nature also came into play with a series of artificial and exaggerated florals, which were applied to strappy sandals and also affixed to the body on ready-to-wear.
Take a look at Loewe Spring Summer 2023 collection below.