A new creative era begins as Demna introduces a refined yet modern vision for the iconic fashion house.

The spotlight at this season’s Milan Fashion Week was firmly fixed on one of the industry’s most anticipated shows. Editors, buyers, stylists, and celebrities gathered with great curiosity as Gucci revealed its Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection. The runway presentation marked the first show under the direction of the house’s new creative leader, Demna, signaling the beginning of a new creative chapter for the legendary Italian brand.

For Gucci, the moment carried particular weight. The house was established in Florence in 1921 by Guccio Gucci and quickly became known for its exceptional craftsmanship, elegant designs, and distinctive luxury aesthetic. Over the decades, the brand has played a defining role in shaping global fashion. However, in recent years the company has faced a more challenging environment. Shifts in consumer behavior and a cooling luxury market have influenced sales, prompting its parent group, Kering, to pursue a renewed creative direction.

Demna’s appointment immediately drew widespread attention throughout the fashion industry. The Georgian-born designer previously spent nearly ten years at Balenciaga, where he developed a reputation for bold concepts and unconventional runway ideas. His designs frequently blend streetwear references with avant-garde fashion, challenging traditional luxury codes while appealing to a younger audience.

His first collection for Gucci, titled “Gucci Primavera,” provided an early indication of how he intends to reinterpret the brand’s heritage. The runway setting itself reflected that dialogue between past and present. Models descended dramatic marble staircases surrounded by classical sculptures, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of Florence’s rich artistic tradition. Many observers noted the resemblance to the historic Uffizi Gallery, a visual nod to the cultural roots that continue to influence the brand.

Throughout the show, Demna presented a total of 83 looks that blended womenswear and menswear. The collection introduced a wide variety of silhouettes, textures, and attitudes. According to the designer, the lineup was meant to represent a diverse cast of characters, suggesting that the future of Gucci may revolve around multiple identities and style perspectives rather than a single aesthetic direction.

Although Demna is widely known for pushing boundaries, his approach at Gucci appears slightly more nuanced and emotional. In a message shared with the press and on social media, he explained that he hopes to bring a sense of softness and refinement to the brand’s image.

“I want Gucci to become lighter, softer, more refined and more emotional,” he wrote. “Sometimes it can even be irrational. I don’t want it to feel overly intellectual.”

That concept was clearly visible in the womenswear looks that opened the show. Many outfits highlighted streamlined silhouettes and a sensual tone. Low-rise leggings styled as trousers appeared in several combinations, paired with fitted tops or sharply tailored jackets. Short dresses and miniskirts added youthful energy, while stockings decorated with the recognizable double-G motif subtly reinforced Gucci’s visual identity.

Outerwear played an important role in shaping the collection’s mood. Faux-fur coats created dramatic volume and contrast against the sleek silhouettes beneath them, while bomber jackets added a relaxed, rebellious touch. Many of the outfits were finished with elegant stiletto heels, reinforcing the glamorous spirit that ran throughout the presentation.

Eveningwear became a major highlight as the show progressed. Toward the end of the runway, several shimmering gowns appeared in metallic fabrics that reflected the lights with every movement. Their fluid shapes and refined construction reminded audiences that Gucci continues to excel at designing statement pieces for red carpets and formal events.

The menswear portion introduced an equally bold visual language. Male models walked the runway wearing fitted tops that emphasized strong silhouettes, often paired with biker jackets for a rugged finish. Oversized leather shoes in vivid red and white tones quickly caught the attention of fashion observers, adding a slightly surreal element that many associate with Demna’s signature style.

Accessories, which remain a crucial component of Gucci’s commercial success, were also prominently featured. Some models carried cross-body belt bags—one of the brand’s most recognizable modern accessories. These items continue to resonate strongly with younger luxury consumers and remain an important part of Gucci’s global identity.

One of the evening’s most memorable moments arrived during the finale. Supermodel Kate Moss stepped onto the runway to close the presentation wearing a sparkling black evening gown with an open back. As she walked, the design subtly revealed a thong featuring the gold double-G logo, a daring detail that quickly became one of the most discussed aspects of the show.

Fashion insiders were quick to point out similarities between Demna’s debut and the glamorous era defined by Tom Ford in the 1990s. During his tenure, Ford famously revitalized Gucci with a sensual, high-gloss aesthetic that reshaped the brand’s image and influence.

Certain elements of that period appeared to resurface in the new collection. Smoky eye makeup, silky fabrics, and glossy finishes echoed the seductive style that defined Gucci during the 1990s. For longtime admirers of the brand, these references may represent a deliberate effort to reconnect with one of its most iconic creative moments.

The timing of the collection is particularly important for the luxury sector. After a surge in spending during the post-pandemic period, growth has slowed as consumers become more selective. According to estimates from consulting firm Bain & Company, the luxury industry has lost tens of millions of customers since the end of the pandemic-era shopping boom.

In response, Kering has begun implementing a broader strategy aimed at revitalizing Gucci’s global appeal. The group recently appointed Luca de Meo to help guide the transformation and strengthen the brand’s position within the competitive luxury market.

After the runway presentation, De Meo expressed confidence in the direction the brand is taking. He highlighted the importance of demonstrating renewed creative energy and emphasized that the company believes Gucci is moving forward with positive momentum.

For Demna, the Fall/Winter 2026/2027 show represents only the first step in what could become a defining new era for the house. Several pieces from the collection are expected to arrive in select boutiques and online stores ahead of the official release scheduled for July 2026.

As the fashion world continues to reflect on one of the most talked-about presentations of the season, it is clear that Gucci has entered a fresh creative phase. Whether Demna’s vision ultimately restores the brand’s dominance remains to be seen, but his debut has already ensured that the industry is watching closely.