Setting the stage for an immersive sartorial spectacle, Nicolas Ghesquière sets the stage for a fantastic journey with the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 collection.
In addition to his incredible and inspiring collections, Nicolas Ghesquière is known for taking Louis Vuitton on a world tour and presenting his collections at fashion shows everywhere from Southern California to South Korea. This time, for Cruise 2024, Ghesquière brought the Maison to Europe, presenting its first show at Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore in Italy on Wednesday, May 24, a small but charming island owned by the Borromeo family. Water was the unexpected theme of the Cruise 2024 fashion show, not only because of the location of the show on a private island but because of the torrential rain that ended up forcing the show indoors. Of course, the collection was about a parade of sci-fi mermaids through the majestic gardens of the island, which was where scenes from Star Wars were filmed, being a star reference for the creative director of the house, and widely considered one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world.
“Incessant rain could not dampen the launch of the Louis Vuitton Cruise Collection at Italy’s magnificent Lake Maggiore. The show was supposed to take place among the terraced gardens of Isola Bella, but Mother Nature had other plans. Organizers quickly moved hundreds of A-list guests inside the frescoed walls of the island’s 17th-century palazzo for Nicholas Ghesquière’s sea-inspired collection,” said one fashion show attendee.
“Everyone thinks of cruises at sea, but on the lake, they are charming and very romantic, it’s a different way to approach the theme of cruises,” said Ghesquière . “I always wanted to show in Italy, Italian culture is fascinating and it’s a dream to show here in such an iconic place, very sophisticated and a bit secret.” “France and Italy share this love of fashion, it’s unquestionable, and both countries are very strong in this category,” said the designer.
This collection, reminiscent of the movie “The Little Mermaid” itself, ensured that the mermaids of the sea remained at the forefront of style with these magical pieces. Nicolas Ghesquière offered a clear sci-fi counterpoint to that fairy tale. Often, the result is a harmonically hybrid mix of clothes. Garments juxtaposed sportswear and formal wear, technology and romanticism, science fiction and baroque, rigid structure and petal-soft romance.
“The mystery of the lakes that you imagine might be populated by fantastical creatures are here today,” Nicolas explained in an interview. “It could be a postmodern wyvern, a legendary creature, a kind of freshwater mermaid that lives in rivers, ponds and lakes. Precious stones adorn her forehead. She seduces men by placing jewels on the shore and luring them into the depths. But this time, it is she who ventures onto dry land to reconnect with the plant kingdom… A progression from the aquatic to the botanical”.
At the heart of this grand narrative was the aquatic romance of Lake Maggiore, with Ghesquière ingeniously translating the aquatic aesthetic into his design philosophy. “We visualized the models as mermaids emerging from the lake, in transition, evolving,” he revealed, seamlessly weaving various design elements into an otherworldly tableau.
This season he took it to the next level, with trompe l’oeil trompe l’oeil of water droplets and scales printed on scuba shirts, jackets and one-piece swimsuits juxtaposed with linen opera coats. As expected, the focus was really on the details: swirling beads on lace buttons, elaborate headpieces worthy of a royal mermaid, and sequin-printed floral dresses. On the runway we could see dresses full of sequins that seemed a tribute to the characteristic scales of marine species, jackets with structured silhouettes, silk mini dresses with lots of movement and suits.
Ghesquière was inspired by the urban dynamics of Seoul, showcasing sporty and glamorous street-ready silhouettes: casual wear was transformed with luxurious fabrics and intricate details. Brushed cashmere sweaters in soft hues, embroidered lace shirts and jeans, and brocade coats over sequined floral dresses: all echoed the designer’s artistic interpretation of the island’s flora. “The mermaid metamorphoses into a flower, a flower from the realm of imagination,” reflects Ghesquière.
The collection culminated in couture capes adorned with beaded water droplets and damask jackets with legendary creatures, celebrating the whimsical luxury that is unique to Louis Vuitton.