A collection inspired by the sun and science.

French fashion house Louis Vuitton has shown its Cruise 2023 collection of shimmering, armour-like silhouettes at the brutalist Salk Institute for Biological Studies in La Jolla, San Diego County, California, designed by American architect Louis Kahn.

In a place of biomedical research, questions about humanity have been at the forefront of the minds of the world’s most illustrious scholars.

The sun has been the guest of honour in the Cruise 2023 collection, playing “an active role in the evolution of this wardrobe where temperature changes set a stylistic pace.”

“I had seen photos of the Salk, it was on the cover of Louis Vuitton’s 2019 magazine, and I was always curious to see it for real,” said Ghesquière.

“I was curious about the architecture and the environment. So I came to San Diego a couple of years ago and didn’t get a chance to see it, but I saw La Jolla and the beach and enjoyed the ambience.” He continued.

Architect Louis Khan placed the sun at the centre of the Salk Institute, a 1965 Brutalist building designed as a concrete monastery for enlightened souls. Right during sunset, the sun was framed perfectly between the shafts of the central fountain.

“I wanted the clothes to be like a reflection, a point of contact between light and people” – Nicolas Ghesquière.

Nicolas and his team have been inspired by the sun for the Cruise 2023 collection. The unique light of the West Coast creates prisms on fabrics full of reflections.

Linen, jacquard, silk, leather, tweed, give an illusion of a metallic palette, shimmering in the sun.

“The vibrations and reflections of the silhouettes shimmer in the sunset” adds the Louis Vuitton team.

The garments, which would have resembled the costumes of Denis Villeneuve’s film – has included futuristic bolero jackets hanging from tinsel, bomber jackets, metallic pants and jacquard dresses.

Models have worn skateboards, while others have worn striped metallic boots and sneakers.

In addition to ready-to-wear, we are once again seeing a strong focus on accessories and handbags. The collection features an exploration of classic Louis Vuitton bags and handbag piece.

The Louis Vuitton runway show had star guests from several actresses including Gemma Chan, Emma Roberts, Samara Weaving, Chloë Grace Moretz, Bridgerton’s Phoebe Dynevor, Renate Reinsve, Ana de Armas, Deepika Padukone (Louis Vuitton’s first Indian brand ambassador) to Ava DuVernay and model Miranda Kerr, LACMA chief Michael Govan and his wife Katherine Ross, Billie Lourd and her husband Austen Rydell was also spotted.

Check out more photos from the LV Cruise ’23 runway show in San Diego.