An easy elegance reigned on the runways of Men’s Fashion Week. Discover the most outstanding trends.
As the fashion cycle returns us to a more classic and understated closet, a timeless colour palette of black, white and beige dominated the Spring/Summer 2024 collections. In recent weeks, buyers, stylists, models and celebrities have hopped from one fashion capital to another to discover what the world’s best-dressed men will wear next summer. In addition, we could notice how designers have unleashed their imagination and creativity to create men’s fashion outside the classics and to innovate new garments.
Men’s fashion has undergone a remarkable evolution, breaking free from the confines of traditional gendered ideas of fashion. It now embraces a new sense of openness to innovation, exploring new silhouettes, materials and trends. The return of iconic pieces such as coats, suits, vests and timeless accessories such as ties, hats and boutonnières showed the desire to embrace excellence in dressing. New talents were born, proving their worth and becoming the standard bearers of the new ruling class. On the runway, some of the key trends for the season reflected what we have seen on the womenswear side, while others offered an exciting preview of how we will dress this season.
There are plenty of great shows left to talk about. Whether it was Issey Miyake’s Homme Plissé on the runway or Pharrell’s debut fight for LV, all of the collections were creatively dazzling offerings for men. Biggies like Prada, Dior and Louis Vuitton made their brand known through their meticulously designed collections.
Overall, designers invite us to take a more relaxed and carefree approach to clothing, a reminder that fashion is meant to be worn and enjoyed. Here’s a look at what happened at the recently concluded men’s fashion week and the top trends from the fashion shows.
ORANGE SHADES
While orange can intimidate even the most extroverted dresser, the designers made it look too simple. Dries Van Noten paired pumpkin shorts with a blazer crossed inside, while Etro’s more cheeky version: a tinsel sleeveless shirt and hoodie combo, is for the more daring. For a contemporary take on suiting, don’t ignore Zegna’s pastel garments, though for day-to-day wear, Bianca Saunders’ graphic tees were a must-have.
Spotted at: Dries Van Note, Études,Issey Miyake
SUITS
Despite the pandemic’s best efforts to reduce the need for them, suits and tailoring are not dead, and that was confirmed by the plethora of garments on the spring/summer 2024 runways. They opened the runway at Givenchy, worn with hands in pockets at Loewe, paired with contrasting pants at Ami, as part of a three-piece suit at Paul Smith and with a horse-bit check print at Gucci. In addition, suits underwent a reinvention through inventive cuts and constructions, with Botter and Egon Lab taking the lead in this innovative movement.
Spotted at: Giorgio Armani, Paul Smith, Dries Van Noten, Federico Cina, Botter, Louis Vuitton, Valentino
FLOWER LAPEL PINS
The flower lapel pins, a symbol of sophisticated grace, underwent a modern resurgence with the addition of diverse decorative elements. Esteemed fashion houses like Dior Men, Dolce & Gabbana, and Amiri revitalized this emblem of dandyism and gentlemanly style. This timeless accessory was reinvented in the form of a brooch or a fabric flower. Valentino was astounded with exquisitely embroidered roses adorning their jackets, while Yohji Yamamoto delighted with silver dragonfly embellishments on lapel pins.
Spotted at: Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Amiri, Yohji Yamamoto, Valentino
GLITTER EVERYWHERE
Luxury fashion brands have presented bold and expressive styles on the runway. This season, Dior Homme displayed intricate decorations and vibrant colours. Dries Van Noten demonstrated that sparkles can be worn more casually, combining a sequined shirt with cargo trousers and sandals. The creative director of Loewe, Jonathan Anderson, showcased a shiny shirt and jeans paired with slippers, and Ami Alexandre Mattiussi added glistening sequins to khaki shades, creating a dazzling effect.
Spotted at: Dior, Dries Van Note, Loewe, Ami Alexandre Mattiussi
ROSY PINK
The soft and gentle tones of pale pink were extremely popular among fashion designers who embraced a relaxed approach to this pastel shade this season. Amiri and Valentino skillfully combined various shades and textures of pink, incorporating matte rose-coloured scarves, woven details, and bouclé textures into their designs. Paul Smith showcased a meticulously tailored three-piece suit in a subtle and dusky pink hue, while Bulgarian-born designer Kiko Kostadinov presented a fun and playful romper suit in the same pastel shade. Additionally, Kenzo enlivened their tailoring with rosy-pink colourways, adding a vibrant touch to their collection.
Spotted at: Kenzo, Amiri, Paul Smith, Kiko Kostadinov, Valentino