This season in Milan feels less like business as usual and more like a pivotal moment in fashion.
The city is alive with creative debuts, heartfelt farewells, and an atmosphere that proves Milan’s enduring status on the global fashion map. From Demna’s restrained Gucci introduction to Louise Trotter’s long-awaited Bottega Veneta debut, Spring/Summer 2026 already promises to be one for the books.
Things began on 23 September, when Demna offered a nontraditional start at Gucci: a Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn short film, The Tiger, in place of a runway spectacle. A day later, Simone Bellotti unveiled his first vision for Jil Sander, taking the reins after Luke and Lucie Meier’s decade of leadership. Later in the week, Dario Vitale presented his provocative debut for Versace, while just last night, Louise Trotter brought her perspective to Bottega Veneta, cementing her as one of the few female voices in this year of sweeping house reshuffles.
The week is balancing celebration of heritage with bold new beginnings. As the city welcomes fresh creative leadership at some of fashion’s most storied houses, it also prepares to honor Giorgio Armani’s unmatched influence. Milan S/S 2026 is reminding us that the city is both keeper of tradition and catalyst for change.
Yet alongside the excitement comes a bittersweet note: Armani, who passed away earlier this month at 91, will be remembered with a special tribute show to close the week. It will celebrate the life and legacy of a designer who forever shaped Italian style.
Dolce & Gabbana
Saturday at the Metropol Theatre was transformed into a lavish pyjama party. Audiences were stunned by a rare crossover moment when the cast of The Devil Wears Prada sequel — Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and Simone Ashley — appeared in character in the front row, sparking buzz and even coaxing a smile from Anna Wintour.
On the catwalk, Dolce & Gabbana expanded their “Pyjama Boys” theme into womenswear. Striped sets were covered in oversized crystals, while sheer robes, lace bodysuits, and lingerie-inspired pieces added a sensual edge. Shoes swung between cozy slippers and high stilettos. With Meryl-as-Miranda Priestly giving a knowing smirk, it was clear the collection combined theatre with true Dolce & Gabbana spirit.
Versace
Dario Vitale’s first outing for Versace reimagined the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana as the chaotic aftermath of a wild night. An unmade bed, scattered glasses, and ashtrays set the mood.
The collection reflected that energy: low-back mini dresses showing flashes of lingerie, oversized tailoring in neon hues, baroque prints clashing with metallic chainmail looks. Rather than replicate archive pieces, Vitale sought to capture Gianni Versace’s rebellious essence. “It’s about the feeling of Gianni, not just the garments,” he said backstage. The debut balanced daring experimentation with respect for the house’s legacy.
Max Mara
Ian Griffiths found his muse in Madame de Pompadour, the witty and influential favorite of Louis XV. For S/S 2026, “Rococo Modern” combined 18th-century extravagance with Max Mara’s signature modern minimalism.
The runway featured trench coats with exaggerated “corona” sleeves, dresses trimmed with floating organza petals, and brocades softened by sharp tailoring. Hair pulled back with black bands echoed Pompadour’s iconic coiffure. The result was cerebral, wearable, and quietly commanding — the essence of Max Mara.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest womenswear collection at the Fondazione Prada explored the tension between uniformity and individuality in today’s algorithm-driven world. Stripping back the set to a stark orange-lacquered floor, the designers framed their vision around the idea of the uniform, reimagined as a source of protection, neutrality, and even elegance. Structured shirts and pleated trousers met playful details like jewel-toned earrings and mock-croc handbags, while flashes of glamour—opera gloves, crystals, and sculptural taffeta—broke through the sobriety. Skirts spliced with ruffles and pleats, as well as draped tops, embodied the designers’ pursuit of “shape without structure.” Ultimately, the collection embraced adaptability and autonomy, offering women the freedom to compose their own identities through clothing, moving away from rigid forms toward a vision of liberation both physical and psychological.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi embraced joy and energy in her second season overseeing both men’s and womenswear. Marc Newson’s colorful block set provided the backdrop for a collection she described as a “future summer,” where nostalgia meets modern playfulness.
Highlights included toggle-fastened pleated skirts, sheer sweatsuits trimmed in shearling, and oversized woven totes in primary colors. The iconic “Peekaboo” bag returned with a glittering sequin-lined interior. It was a lighthearted, eclectic, yet luxurious vision — a reminder of Fendi’s ability to keep fashion fun.
