From Schiaparelli to Dior.
Paris has long been synonymous with fashion’s highest echelons of creativity and sophistication, but this season carries a fresh energy. The collections not only wowed audiences but also reflected a deeper transformation within the fashion industry. Beyond the glittering runway shows and celebrity-studded front rows, it’s clear that fashion is evolving. Designers like Sean McGirr, preparing his second collection for Alexander McQueen, and Alessandro Michele, poised to unveil his much-anticipated debut for Valentino, are stirring excitement and raising questions about the future of luxury fashion. Insiders and critics alike are speculating on how their visions will redefine haute couture and ready-to-wear in the years to come.
The sense that fashion is at a crossroads is palpable. In recent years, we’ve witnessed a resurgence of theatrical, extravagant presentations that blur the lines between art and entertainment. Designers are increasingly turning to collaborations, multimedia crossovers, and even digital fashion to make an impact in a competitive market. This shift has led to collections that, while visually arresting, often feel fragmented, as designers juggle commercial demands with artistic ambitions. As the luxury market faces economic headwinds, designers are forced to innovate to maintain relevance, leading to a mix of ideas rather than cohesive visions.
Yet, for those who yearn for the artistry of fashion’s past, there’s a glimmer of hope. Amidst the spectacle, some collections hearken back to the craftsmanship and creativity that made Paris Fashion Week legendary. The event itself mirrors the broader industry’s balancing act between heritage and innovation, tradition and transformation. As fashion continues to evolve, one constant remains: Paris will always be a hub where groundbreaking ideas are born, nurtured, and celebrated. Let’s take a look at some of the boldest collections that graced the Paris runways this season.
DIOR
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Dior took inspiration from the strength and beauty of mythological Amazons, revisiting themes from her A/W 2024 couture show. Presented at the Musée Rodin, the collection was a tribute to female empowerment, drawing a direct connection to Christian Dior’s famous Amazone dress, a symbol of feminine strength. Chiuri combined sleek, sporty elements with ethereal touches, resulting in asymmetric bodysuits, mesh dresses, and utility shirts that felt both modern and timeless. The collection also featured Dior’s signature romanticism with delicate plissé dresses, sheer fabrics, and shimmering embellishments, blending strength with elegance. Chiuri’s exploration of movement and femininity pushed the boundaries of the house’s heritage while maintaining its core essence of refined elegance.
SCHIAPARELLI
Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli collection for S/S 2025 once again blurred the line between fashion and art. Inspired by the house’s surrealist roots, Roseberry delivered a collection that was both avant-garde and deeply rooted in craftsmanship. Bold silhouettes, intricate embroidery, and sculptural embellishments took center stage, with the use of vibrant jewel tones, gold, and black creating a dramatic, theatrical atmosphere. Oversized hats and surrealist-inspired jewelry added to the collection’s otherworldly feel, while the couture-like tailoring grounded the collection in the brand’s storied history. Roseberry’s daring vision continued to push the boundaries of modern couture, keeping Schiaparelli at the forefront of fashion innovation.
VETEMENTS
Vetements, led by Demna and Guram Gvasalia, continued to challenge the status quo with its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for its irreverent approach to fashion, Vetements once again critiqued consumerism and luxury culture with a collection that was equal parts streetwear and high fashion. The brand’s signature oversized silhouettes and deconstructed designs were present, along with ironic slogans and subversive takes on luxury staples. Hoodies, trench coats, and jeans were elevated with meticulous craftsmanship, while unexpected materials and collaborations added an element of surprise. Vetements’ ability to blend high fashion with everyday wear has cemented its status as a cult favorite, consistently pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be.
As Paris Fashion Week S/S ’25 drew to a close, it left an indelible mark on the fashion world, showcasing the best of innovation, creativity, and craftsmanship. From the elegance of Hermès to the bold statements of Vetements, this season proved once again that Paris remains the ultimate stage for fashion’s most daring and visionary designers.
HERMÈS
Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski’s Hermès collection was a masterclass in the fusion of creativity and craftsmanship. Set against a minimalist backdrop of panelled walls resembling blank canvases, the runway highlighted the artistry behind the pieces. The collection played with contrasts, featuring semi-sheer knits layered over sporty lingerie, lightweight leather jackets, and perfectly tailored pleated trousers. Hermès’ signature attention to detail shone through in the seamless integration of zippers along seams, adding a modern twist to classic designs. Bright pinks and abstract prints on silk shirts brought a painterly quality to the collection, while intricately crafted dresses, combining knitwear, leather, and beads, exemplified the brand’s unparalleled craftsmanship. The collection celebrated the lightness and fluidity of materials, proving that behind every effortless piece lies meticulous artistry.
SAINT LAURENT
Anthony Vaccarello’s latest Saint Laurent collection marked a return to the brand’s roots. Staged at the iconic Rue de Bellechasse headquarters, where Vaccarello first presented eight years ago, the show had a full-circle significance. The set design, featuring a monumental golden circle over a vivid blue floor, paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Marrakech gardens. The collection itself was an ode to the house’s legacy, with fluid, tailored suits and luxurious bohemian-inspired designs taking center stage. Bella Hadid’s much-anticipated return to the runway, sporting Saint Laurent’s iconic glasses, was one of the show’s most talked-about moments. Vaccarello’s sensual, modern reinterpretation of Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic silhouettes created one of his most desirable collections yet, seamlessly blending nostalgia with contemporary allure.
