Nicolas Ghesquiere presents his latest collection for Louis Vuitton’s Pre-Fall 2023 at Jamsugyo bridge, Seoul.
For his first Pre-Fall runway show for Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière looked to the East, choosing the Jamsugyo bridge in Seoul, Korea as the backdrop for the collection. The set was designed by Squid Game director Hwang Dong-Hyuk, who played with light to reflect the energy of the architecture’s past, present, and future. Connecting Gangnam and Gangbuk, the bridge is reactive to the motion of the water, serving as a fitting backdrop to a collection all about transformation.
Completed in 1976, it serves as the platform for Ghesquiere’s vision to come to life, with Hwang Dong Hyuk designing the set for the show. “For Seoulites, [the Jamsugyo Bridge] is a living monument,” said Ghesquiere. “It is also a real fictional character that’s very present in many films. It’s an inspiring place to stage a show. It’s a genuine catwalk.”
It was closed for 24 hours for the show, where models walked on the 795m-long linear path wearing the stunning timeless latest pieces from the collection while the sounds of tunes such as “아니 벌써 Already Now” by Sanullim were played. The set also served as a fitting backdrop to the collection, which meant transformation. HoYeon Jung, the “Squid Game” star and Louis Vuitton brand ambassador, opened the display, rocking a bright blue windbreaker with marigold accents and waist-defining zippers.
“The bridge is a symbol of harmony, between the natural and the urban, coexisting as one,” Hwang explained after the show. “The name of the bridge also means ‘submerge’ in Korea, so the intense weather helped express that feeling better.”
The collection aimed to celebrate the French style and the brand’s most recognizable silhouettes. It also aimed to bring the audience on a trip from history to innovation, where timeless, comfy and classic pieces were shown in new innovative ways while also emphasising contemporary femininity and versatility. From deep v-necks, traditionally tailored pieces, accent shoulders, bold blues, and reds, the looks were just amazing. There were also chequered patterns, stripes, geometric detailing, monograms, and utilitarian motifs, which paired tailored suiting and experimental silhouettes.
The collection featured moto jackets, quilted leather, bodysuits, A-line skirts, chunky outwear, and svelte zip-up jumpsuits. Billowing linen maxi skirts and floor-length pleated jersey dresses were paired with fluid lapel-free blazers or embossed tweed frock coats. Accessories took an on-the-go wearer focus with metal carabiner belts, chunky ruched leather boots, structured handbags, and roomy tote bags. As regards footwear, the collection went for Mary Jane’s tennis shoes, gladiators, ankle boots and creepers.
The show had approximately 1,600 guests, including 100 local students to witness the “inclusive cultural event”. The Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2023 collection also had some of the boldest A-list guests, including the likes of brand ambassadors Alicia Vikander, Chloë Grace Moretz, Doona Bae, Jaden Smith and New Jeans’ Hyein huddled on the front row beside Hwang and Louis Vuitton’s newly appointed chief executive officer Pietro Beccari, joined by Chinese celebrities Jin Chen and Gong Jun.
All members of the K-pop group Le Sserafim, Yuta Nakamoto of the Korean boyband NCT 127, Lee Felix of the boy band Stray Kids, Japanese icon Takuya Kimura’s daughter, the actress Kōki, Chinese actresses Karena Lam and Louise Wong, Australian actress Maia Mitchell, South African actress Thuso Mbedu, “Squid Game” actor Wi Hajun, Kim MingYu of the boy band Seventeen, and actress Jung Ryeo-won were also in attendance.
Let’s take a closer look at some of the looks from the collection.